Reloading - Step 2

Once the space has been secured for a reloading bench and a sturdy bench has been built or bought, the time comes to gather the necessary equipment. Don’t worry about trying to collect every possible tool, as this is the beginning of a long hobby that will always grow.

There are basic kits available from the major manufacturers, and they are a very good start. However, there are a few small tools that may not be included in the basic kits. If these tools are not included, be sure to add them to the first shopping list.

• The first is a commonsense measure: safety glasses. It is essential to protect your vision or you won’t be doing any shooting or reloading ever again.

• The second tool is a dial indicating or digital caliper capable of accurately measuring 0.001 increments.

• The third tool is a primer pocket cleaner. When a cartridge is fired, small deposits of residue collect in the primer pocket. Usually, they won’t affect seating primers for several firings, but keeping the primer pocket clean is just good practice.

The contents of reloading kits differ from one manufacturer to another. However, most include the following equipment: current reloading manual, reloading press, case lubricating equipment–usually a pad and lubricant, powder scale, powder funnel for .22 to .45 caliber, case deburring tool, primer tray and priming unit, and case loading blocks (two).

Some kits include the following equipment. If a particular kit does not, you will need the following: powder measure and stand, powder trickler, case trimmer with caliber specific pilots, and case cleaning equipment.

This will round out the basic equipment needed for starting reloading.

For each caliber you intend to reload, a specific set of reloading dies will be needed, along with a shell holder for that cartridge. Fortunately, for most rifle cases, three shell holders cover most rimless cases: The .378 (.223 Remington), the .473 (.30-06 size) and the .531 (.300 H&H Magnum size). Rimmed cases based on the .30-30 use a .506 shell holder. Handgun shell holders vary widely.

We all develop personal preferences, and sometimes we upgrade equipment as our skill and interest increases. Most reloaders start with a single stage press, that is, the press has one station in which reloading dies are installed. The strength and durability of a single stage press are the benefits. Other folks like a turret press that has a rotating head into which several dies may be installed. The benefit here is that a reloader can advance to the next step by simply rotating the turret to the next die.

I would not encourage a beginner to purchase a progressive press unless he or she has expert guidance and intends to load large volumes of a single caliber. The progressive press moves the empty case through the entire process of resizing, priming, charging, bullet seating, and crimping with repeated pulls of the lever. Some are even hydraulically powered with a foot pedal, but those are commercial in both complexity and cost.

The main idea is that a reloader can get started with a basic set-up that will craft ammo that is both more accurate and less expensive than commercial products.

Once the equipment is purchased, the press must be affixed solidly to the reloading bench. This can be accomplished by bolting directly through the bench or by using a mounting plate that is machined to bolt to the bench and allow presses to be bolted to it. Lee Precision recently introduced a setup that allows presses to be interchanged with ease. Unless you are using more than one press, it’s an extravagance. I always remember an old friend who bolted his press to a piece of plywood, and when he loaded a batch of shells he simply C-clamped the unit to his shop bench.

A product that many reloaders find useful is the Lee Auto Prime. This is a simple hand tool that incorporates a primer tray. When fitted with the appropriate Lee Auto Prime shell holder (different from the shell holders used on the loading press), they make priming cases fast and easy. They also provide good “feel” for seating primers. Eventually, I had three Auto Primes in the cupboard: one for the.223 family, one for .30-06 based cases, and one for the standard magnums (.300 H&H family). Hornady and RCBS have crafted their own versions of the hand priming tool, and they are effective as well.

Basic single-stage press kits run from just over $100 for the Lee Challenger kit to around $325 for the RCBS, Hornady, or Lyman outfits. A turret press outfit will run from about $350 for a Lyman to over $400 for the RCBS brand.

Most dies will run from about $22 to over $100 a set, depending on manufacturer, caliber, and quality. Lee Precision includes a shell holder and loading data with their dies, while most other makers require the shell holder be purchased separately.

And while reloaders usually start cleaning cases with a rag and a bottle of brass cleaner/polish, a tumbler eventually proves its worth, especially if we load more than a box or two at a batch.

Remember, reloading is a fairly simple process. You need to be able to clean the fired brass, trim case length, and be able to resize and deprime, reprime and recharge, and seat a bullet and crimp. It’s just taking one step at a time, being careful, and watching precise standards, and you will have precision ammunition. Most hunters and shooters will recover the cost of equipment within a year or two. That does not include the satisfaction of “rolling your own”.

Check your local sporting goods dealer for advice and guidance. See if you can get advice and guidance from an experienced reloader through a local gun club. Don’t listen to the old myths relayed by people who don’t reload.

Most of all, join the NRA and the Pennsylvania Rifle-Pistol Association, Inc. (www.pennarifleandpistol.org) and support their work. Keep our Second Amendment strong!